Saturday, September 22, 2018

Greece and Turkey 2003-2004

Weeks 1-3

Walkingman’s 1st Week Across Greece and Turkey
Athens, Greece to Lamia, via Thiva. 11-20-03 to 11-27-03, 154 miles, 22 mpd, 10,654 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2003.

Back on the road again, walking across Greece and Turkey for the next 3 months. Almost missed my plane in Chicago; at the wrong gate, had to run through airport to make the plane. They had to put my luggage back on.

Arrived at Athens at 3pm, just enough time to assemble my baby jogger and walk 3 miles before the sunset. Pitched my tent in an olive grove near the end of the runway. Nice partly sunny, partly cloudy days, and cool nights so far. Cool and foggy in the morning, sun usually burns through by mid-morning. No rain yet, so nice walking weather so far.

Head north and around the outskirts of Athens to avoid the noise and traffic. I could see the Olympic stadium and the Acropolis off in the distance. Staying on a local road that follows the main National Road 1. You have to keep a close eye on cars, as the slow ones hug the shoulder and white line so faster ones can pass. Saw one lady being helped off the pavement at a crossing as a policeman argued with the driver that hit her. Greeks always beeping or talking on their cell phones. Nice and quiet on the local roads away from the big city.

My Teva Vector sandals and Teva Anodyne shoes are working out real good. Both are very comfy and sturdy. The only thing I changed was to add on a strip of reflective tape on the heels, and shorter stronger laces for the shoes. Teva gave me a big discount at their annual warehouse sale in Flagstaff, Arizona for the sandals, and I bought the shoes over the internet.

Passed by a big Lion Monument from a 338 B.C. battle fought between Phillip II of Greece and Alexander of Persia, I believe. I am following the route most invaders and defenders have used for 1000’s of years. I have a historical map of Greece from National Geographic that shows various battles and ruins. Stopping at many roadside springs to fill up my water bottles and wash up. Usually a pipe gushing spring water from a rock and concrete arch, with trough and drain.

So far mostly rolling hills with olive groves, vineyards, cotton fields, and marble quarries. Full swing into harvest of cotton and olives, with pruning of the olive trees going on also.

Stopped at a cafe one cold morning for some zesto nescafe glicko gala (hot coffee sweet milk). Local helped me order, and said it was on him. Sat down by the fireplace and listened to Greek folk music. Nothing better then the simple things in life: coffee, fire, music, and friendship.

Trying to learn as many Greek words as I can. Efharisto (thank you), yas (hi or bye), somi (bread). Interviewed by local TV station outside of Lamia. Man on motor scooter with gold delivery tray stopped to talk; asked me how I liked my coffee, and came back 15 minutes later with a coffee and sandwich from his deli. I gave him a book I just finished. The Gnole by Alan Anderson, I think.

Good first week. Till next week, I am headed north for Larissa.

Walkingman’s 2nd Week Across Greece and Turkey

Lamia, Greece to base of Mount Olympus. 11-28-03 to 12-4-03, 154 miles, 10,808 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2003.

Feeling more at ease now on the second week. Learning more Greek words and getting a feel for how things work. Always have a few butterflies in my stomach when I start a new walk in a new country. My body feels fine, no aches or pains. Feet are doing good, no blisters yet. Using Udderly Smooth Udder Cream every morning, and my Teva sandals and shoes feel great with no break in needed.

Days are kind of short, only light from 7am to 5:30pm. So I am spending 13 hours in my tent. Have been listening to BBC on my Grundig shortwave radio, but it just broke. Trying to dry out the insides and fix it. Looks like I will have to look for another in a big city electronics store.

Only two more weeks of shorter days, then the winter solstice. I should cross into Turkey in two weeks, so the days will be getting longer and warmer as I head south along the coast. I can see snow on top of Mount Olympus at about 9000 feet. Getting colder at night, 35 to 45 degrees F, 55 to 70 F during the day. Good walking weather, and I stay nice in warm in my sleeping bag and tent.

Passing through lots of olive groves in the hills, with big fields of cotton and just planted winter wheat in the valleys. Lots of beehives for honey and pollination in the olive groves. In the hills I sometimes pass old men riding donkeys with big loads of olive wood and branches. All the olive trees get pruned every fall. I saw two huge maple trees that must be 400 years old, huge trunks 5 feet thick, with just 30 or 40 short branches pruned back every year. In town and in front of every house people prune their shade trees to let in the winter sun. Looks kind of weird with each main branch having a big knob on the end where it is pruned, then grows again.

Three men sitting outside a cafe hailed me over to join them for a cup of elinka (greek coffee). Cowboy coffee, like what John Wayne used to drink. Still have the grounds in the bottom of the cup. Next time a lady offered me a cup outside a gas station, I drained off the coffee into my tin cup and left the grounds behind, and added sugar, much better.

Learning more Greek words about what I am doing, where I am going, and what I have with me in my strange cart. I often try out words on people and find out the right pronunciation. The Greek letters are a little different. 13 letters are the same as ours, and 11 letters are different, like the frat house letters at college. delta, theta, pi, gamma, etc. So it takes a while to be able to look at a sign and figure out what it says.

Lots of dogs barking at me from behind fences or chained up. A few loose dogs in farm fields, not sure if they are wild, or just guarding the fields. One dog barked and jumped on his fence gate, gate popped open, and he stepped out on road looking surprised. He looked around a bit, but stayed close to his property. I had my squirt gun ready, but have not had any problems yet.

Coming out of Alimiros I took the wrong road. Rainy, windy, cold day with my map inside bin. Stopped to shelter under empty produce stand for a couple hours until the wind and rain died down. Took me 9 miles before I figured out I was off track and headed back to town to find the right road. No hurry though, walking for 3 months, so I just want to enjoy myself without worrying about how far I go.

Through a toll both for the narrow Tembi valley road, no charge for walkers. Lots of traffic down curving narrow road with river pinlos below, and cliffs on both sides. Forced off shoulder twice by trucks hugging the corners and tailgating the truck ahead, so they could not see me. Had to keep a very close eye out for all traffic.

Till next week, I am headed north and then east for Turkey.

Walkingman’s 3rd week across Greece and Turkey

Mt Olympus to Kariani via Thessaloniki, 12-5-03 to 12-11-03, 161 miles 10,969 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2003.

Made it pretty much as far north as I will be going and turned the corner at Thessaloniki. Headed east for Turkey along the coast of the Aegean Sea. Saw two snowplows on the road. Cold overcast day; did not expect snow though. Figured they were headed up into the mountains where there are some ski resorts. It started raining that evening just as I finished setting up my tent. That night when I woke up I heard a strange sliding noise on my tent. Sounded like an animal was sliding down my tent. I looked out and it was 2 inches of snow. Nice and warm in my sleeping bag with a cup of instant coffee warming up on my candle stove (candle in small tin can, with bigger can on top for water). Takes about 10 to 15 minutes to heat up my coffee, and gives a nice warm glow to the tent, while I listen to the BBC news.

Stopped for tour of Platamon Castle on a hill overlooking the Aegean Sea. Built about 1000 years ago, although the site has been used for over 2000 years for various forts. Huge 4-foot thick stone walls.

Walked through a lot of beach towns with closed up bars, campgrounds, and hotels. Still nice walking weather for shorts and T-shirt, although the locals are all bundled up. Stopped in one small cafe for coffee and watched an old MGM movie in English with Greek subtitles with secretaries and men in gray flannel suits singing and dancing around the office. Another cafe was full of students playing darts, drinking coffee and smoking. Terrible habit (smoking) to start, harder one to quit.

Passing a lot of roadside shrines where accidents have happened. They look like little churches made out of metal, clay, or marble. Usually have lit oil lamps, pictures of Jesus, Virgin Mary, and Saints. They tend to be wherever there is a curve in the road. One long curve had 7 shrines, with 2 that had been victims of accidents themselves. They should put up flashing warning signs 100 yards away about deadly curve ahead.

I passed a closed gas station with 3 dogs barking at me from behind fence. One dog jumped fence and came after me. I picked up a stone, which usually causes most dogs to turn and run. He kept coming so I threw; he picked it up and ate it. By then I was past the station so he stopped. Most dogs seem to know their territory or property they have to guard and do not go any farther.

Hit by a sneaker in the road picked up and thrown by a speeding car. Just a small kids sneaker so no harm done. I have to keep an eye out for flattened cans, as they can be kicked up by cars and turned into flying spinning knifes.

Got my radio dried out and working again. Spending from about 5:30 PM till 7:00 AM in my tent, so I have a lot of extra time to write in my journal, email, listen to news and music, and sleep. Always look forward to the winter solstice and longer days.

One gas station I stopped at had quite a few maps on the wall. They showed the different empires throughout the ages and the territory they controlled in Europe and Asia. Greece and Turkey seem to be the center and crossroads of the world. The gas station attendant, Dimitri, made a cup of coffee for me, and asked me questions about my walk.

Till next week, I am headed for Turkey along the coast. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org with questions or comments. Keep on walking.

Weeks 4-6

Walkingman’s 4th Week Across Greece and Turkey
Kariani to Alexandroupoli via Xanthi, 12-12-03 to 12-18-03, 155 miles 11,124 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2003

Freezing nights now, with chilly days. Keeping warm with a layer of wool inside and Gore-Tex outside. Candle stove and hot tin of coffee keeps my hands warm in the morning while I eat my breakfast of Brie cheese, sausage, yogurt with granola, nutela (chocolate hazelnut spread), and bread.

Walking along the Aegean Sea with the snow covered mountains and the border with Bulgaria to the north. Should cross into Turkey Friday the 19th at Kipi, Greece and Ipsala, Turkey. Then turn south at Kesan and head down the Gelibolu peninsula and to Canakkale.

Stopped at the thermal springs at Eleftheres. Nobody around, all closed up for winter. Found a small natural pool behind the main bathhouse from the overflow. About two feet deep and six feet around, with 103 degree F water. Had a nice soak for about 30 minutes, while 2 dogs and 20 cats waited for handouts. I gave them some bread and yogurt. Some of the cats were jumping in the air and grabbing the bread with their paws.

Met and talked to Japanese bicyclist Masaki Kawashima. He has been riding 6 months and 8,500 miles from Japan via China, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, and Greece on the old Silk Road. He will continue on to London, UK as his final destination. He gave me a nice map of Turkey he was done with. I gave him my card and asked him to email me some more info on his route, as I hope to do the Silk Road to China.

Mobbed by the paparazzi in Komotini. One TV reporter with cameraman, 2 newspapermen with cameras, and a radio reporter with tape recorder all asking me questions and taking photos. Louis from Mexico promised to email me photo and article to post on my website. He walked me to the center of town and showed me an Internet cafe.

Walked past the Acropolis of Kavala. Built about 600 years ago on the former site of the Byzantine fortress of Christoupolis, built 2000 years ago. Walked under a 100 feet high aqueduct that brought water from the mountains to the fortress.

Had a hot cup of Skalpi from a vendor with a three-wheel cart similar to mine. He had a wood brazier with a hot tin of a milky white apple tasting liquid, sprinkled with cinnamon on top.

Hearing Muslim call to prayers several times a day from loudspeakers on minarets above Mosques. Seeing many women with headscarves from around Xanthi and east towards Turkey.

A nice German cafe owner talked to me for a while, then invited me in for a free cup of coffee and a falafel (pita bread, tomatoes, french fries, and humus). Nice man at produce stand waved me over and filled a bag with grapes, apples, and pears for me. Almost everyday some friendly Greek is inviting me in for coffee or giving me food. Played some backgammon at a cantina (roadside truck cafe) I stopped at for coffee. All the cafes have chess and backgammon boards. Probably the oldest board games in the world played for 1000’s of years in the Middle East.

Till next week, I am headed east for Kesan, Turkey, then south for Izmir. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website, www.walkingman.org. Merry Christmas and keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause

Walkingman’s 5th Week Across Greece and Turkey

Alexandropoli, Greece to Ezine, Turkey via Kesan, 12-19-03 to 12-25-03, 136 miles. 11,260 Total World Walk miles. Copyright 2003

I got my passport stamped and headed out of Greece, but a soldier at the bridge turns me back, no walkers on bridge. Back to border control to look for taxi or ride. Then officer calls me over and says he will talk to army officer about letting me walk over.

Army officer questions me and goes through all my gear. Has me unroll tent and finds white cold flakes (frost) that he puzzles over. Says he thinks I am a spy, and world walk is my cover. I show him my journal and he reads my weekly articles. Then he walks me to middle of bridge over river to Turkish guards and asks if I can walk across. They phone their officer and he says no.

So back to office again, and he tells me to tell President Bush not to attack Greece and that the Greek army would beat us. They call taxi for me and I wait 2 hours. Three hundred-yard ride free, taxi driver very nice. Buy Turkish visa for $100 and get it stamped, they wave me through inspection.

Back walking again after 4 hours at the border. Nice sunny day, seems to be warmer now, no more freezing nights. Heavy headwind and rainy days slows me down a bit though. Down the Gelibolu (Gallapoli) peninsula, which was the scene of heavy fighting during World War 1 between ANZAC and Turkish forces. Lots of concrete bunkers for tanks or machine guns still in the fields. Rolling hills with mostly winter wheat or lying fallow now.

Changed my money from Euros to Turkish, got 253 million Lira for 150 Euros. I am a millionaire now. Little hard to get used to how much things cost and how much money to give people. A cup of coffee costs from 1 to 1 and a half million (1$US). Internet cafes are widespread and only 1 million (about 70 cents US) for one hour of computer time. Having problems with the phones, so switched from using my Pocketmail computer over the phone to Internet cafes.

Raining real hard Christmas Eve, so I stopped at a restaurant and treated myself to a hot meal. Chicken rice soup, bread, coffee, and baklava for dessert. Good meal, but not as good as my dinner at the Hutchison dairy farm in New Zealand last year on Christmas. Still cold and raining Christmas morning so I stopped at a cafe and had coffee, eggs covered with olive oil, bread, and then tea. The owner spoke English and translated to the two police officers that I had breakfast with. They helped me with my pronunciation of words I was trying to learn.

Nice woman from Philadelphia originally, but now living in Turkey for 14 years, stopped to talk. She gave me some M&M's and invited me to stay in her guesthouse and take a hot shower, home cooked meal, and computer time. Nice old stone farm building that she converted to a house. Her local helper and the local Jandarme officer came by for a nice visit and drink wine and tea. Nothing like a home cooked meal and hot shower if you have not had one for 5 weeks.

Just before I left Greece a nice woman stopped and gave me a big bag of fruit and home made cookies. She said she saw me on TV in Komotini. So I am having a great time, meeting lots of nice people. No problems so far that I have not been able to handle.

Till next week, I am headed south for Izmir along the coast. 5 weeks walked, 8 more to go until I have to fly back to the US.

Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any questions or comments.

Thanks to all the people that have been emailing me. Always glad to hear from anybody. Happy New Year, and keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause.

Walkingman's 6th Week Across Greece and Turkey

Ezine to Yenisakran via Edremit, Turkey, 12-26-03 to 1-1-04, 151 miles. 11,411 Total World Walk miles. Copyright 2004

New photos and current articles have been posted on my web site now if you want to see them. Had a very enjoyable stay with Arlene from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and her friends Sefika and Turhan, in a small village called Ilyasfaka. Then headed south for Assos on a small, windy, up and down road. Stopped to view a still usable 700-year old stone bridge built by the Ottoman Turks. Right next to a modern reinforced concrete bridge that will probably only last 50 years or so.

Missed the turnoff for the main road as I was looking at the fortress of Assos. Ended up going down this cobblestone road to the sea. Pretty rough on my shoulders, so I turned around and found the right turnoff. These cobblestones are 6-inch cubes of granite laid in a herringbone pattern that lasts forever. Sorry about all the mistakes in this article, the keyboard I am using is sticky, and some of the letters are in different places than I am used to.

Seeing lots of shepherds out grazing their sheep and-or goats. Hardly any fences here in Turkey, but I guess everybody has certain grazing rights in certain areas. Meeting lots of nice people so far, getting invited in to share tea usually 2 to 6 times a day. Nice warm stove and men talking, playing cards and backgammon. In one cafe a man brought out a bag of old coins he had dug up that he wanted to sell me. Had an extra pair of sunglasses, so I offered to trade, and he took them. About 10 men standing around trying on the glasses, drinking tea and asking me questions about my walk.

Learning more words and my pronunciation is getting better. In another cafe one man had gone to school in Texas and worked in Virginia, but came back to run the family olive oil business. I asked a bunch of questions about olive trees. He said they did not know how old most of the trees are, as they keep on cutting off the top of the tree when it gets old and leaving the roots and trunk to grow new branches. Going by millions of olive trees, seems to be the main crop for southern Europe for thousands of years.

As I was going by a school about 30 kids came out to ask me questions and beep my plastic horn. I gave them one of my Internet address cards and told them what I was doing. Got another nice map of Turkey from a road worker. He also gave me an orange vest and some reflective tape. I cut down the vest to make a flag with reflective stripes and stripe for my hat.

I took down my USA flag at the border because of a State Department warning for Americans to keep a low profile after the bombings in Istanbul. Not really worried though, wherever I go people always seem to be nice as long as I am nice and try to learn some of their language.

Getting a little nicer as I head further south. Some nice sunny days, good for shorts, sandals, and short sleeve shirt. Also some cool rainy days where I have to wear my Gore-Tex coat and pants.

Heading south for Izmir and the Mediterranean Sea. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any questions or comments. Keep on Walking.

Weeks 7-9

Walkingman's 7th Week Across Greece and Turkey
Yenisakran to Bufa via Izmir, 1-2-04 to 1-8-04, 141 miles

11,552 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2004

Days are slowly getting longer as I head further south. Still some cold nights and days, with lots of rain and a few sunny days. One day it was raining pretty hard and I kept having to walk through puddles and get drenched by passing cars. Stayed warm enough and mostly dry with my Gore-Tex, but not fun. So I stopped early and camped in a partially completed but empty building to get out of the rain. Lots of partially completed buildings that look abandoned. I think with the high inflation rate and the poor economy they must be put on hold for a while. Took me a day and a half to walk through Isomer, the 3rd largest city in Turkey. Lots of traffic, dogs, people, mosques, and houses as far as I could see. Hard to find a place to camp, as I did not make it all the way through by nightfall. Finally found a small park by the river with some trees I could hide behind.

Stopping for tea quite often on cold rainy days. I sit by the stove and look over the paper. Every article has a photo with it, so with my dictionary I can usually puzzle out a few new words, and get an idea of the story. Often a shopkeeper that knows English and reads my sign calls me over to talk. They usually yell or signal over to the nearest tea shop and get a couple glasses delivered.

Asking for directions to a Internet cafe from one man brought an invitation for tea and cookies from Sinan Basak. He was in the Turkish-American Friendship League and liked to practice his English whenever he can. He also called a friend at the local paper to come over and interview me. Gave me a nice flag of Turkey, and a small world globe pencil sharpener, as my metal world globe bank was getting all rusty.

Had another nice visit with Sukran Alba. She called me over to her 4-wheel cart as I passed to join her for tea. She was selling citrus fruit, figs, flowers, and tea by the roadside. With my dictionary handy we had a nice talk with her also using my dictionary. She was a widow raising 4 kids, and rented a house in the local village. She gave me a string of beads that I notice a lot of men fingering in one hand as they smoke with the other. She said it was a stress reliever to help you stop smoking. Did not seem to work for her either as she was smoking up a storm. I bought a bag of figs for 3 million, but she did not have change for a 5 million note, so I told her to give me some oranges and grapefruit. She filled up a bag with about 7 of each. Taken me about 5 days but I have finally eaten them all. She had to push her cart every AM and PM about a mile. Must have weighed 500 pounds with all the fruit.

Passing through a lot of beach and tourist areas now along the coast. More olive groves, citrus groves, greenhouses for flowers and vegetables, and winter wheat or hay. Almost down to the Mediterranean Sea now, which is the warmest part of Turkey. Seems like all the men in Turkey smoke, everyone I meet offers me a cigarette.

Headed southeast for Mugla and the coast. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any comments or questions.

Keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause.

Walkingman's 8th Week across Greece and Turkey

Bufa to Gocek via Mugla, 1-9-04 to 1-15-04, 147 miles, 11,699 Total World Walk miles.

Time really flies when you are having fun. Two months walking already and only 5 weeks left before I fly back home. Meeting lots of nice people and being invited in for tea many times every day. Turkey is the second friendlyist country after New Zealand. Often when I ask directions to a store or I-cafe someone will take the time to walk me there.

Lots of rain and flooding the first part of the week, but once I got past Mugla it turned sunny and warm. Very mountainess in this area, with many mountain passes I have to climb over. I go into slow motion, about 2 miles per hour, bent over and looking at my feet and breathing deep. The truck drivers are going slow to and they look at me like I am crazy. For a steep pass I usually mix up a cup of instant coffee and sugar to give me a boost. Always feel a sense of accomplishment when I reach the top.

One evening I set up my tent on a hillside behind a olive grove. Couple of dogs smelled and heard me and started barking. Little while later a couple local men came up to talk to me. They where saying it was dangerous and to cold and that I should come to the village. A small boy with them could speak english and explained to me what they were saying. They called the local Jandarme to talk to me. 4 Jandarmes showed up about 30 minutes later and asked me what I was doing. They also said it was dangerous here to camp, wild animals and to cold. They wanted me to break camp and they would take me to a better place. So when men in uniforms with guns tell you to come with them it is best to obey. They put my stroller in back of van and drove me for about 20 minutes over dirt roads and the Sakar mountain pass to the edge of a small town. They gave me directions to a camping spot about 3 miles away. Bunch of dogs barking at the edge of town though, so I just walked back about 300 yards and camped under some pine trees. Nice guys, but did not seem to understand that I camp in the woods and olive groves every night with no problem. Took photo of them and told them I would put it on my website and write about them. Lots of nice Police and Jandarme stop and talk to me, no problems so far with them.

Stopped at a beautiful 2000 year old Greek ruin at Euromos. Temple of Zeus with about 9 out of 20 pillars still standing. Also saw some old rock domes and a stone church with a stone barrel vaulted roof still standing on the shores of Bufa lake.

Some snow on the mountain peaks I have been passing, but no snow on the ground where I have been since Greece. Have not even been zipping up my sleeping bag lately.

Heading southeast for Kas and Anatalya over the next week. Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it if you have any questions or comments.

Keep on walking. Gary Walkingman Hause.

Walkingman's 9th Week Across Greece and Turkey

Gocek to Finike via Kas, 1-16-04 to 1-22-04, 133 miles

11,832 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2004

Four beautiful sunny days in a row. Shorts, t-shirt, sandals, and wide brimmed sun hat. Had to stop for shade breaks a couple times and soak my hat as it got hot. Up and down lots of hills with pine tree forests, and oranges, olives, and greenhouses in the valleys.

Almost every day I pass through a big city, and then several small villages off the main road tucked into the south side of a hill. One local told me that Turks like to live together for protection because of thousands of years of raiding armies and bandits passing through. Easier to defend a town if you are on the side of a hill and can see raiders coming from far away. Better to keep flat land for crops, and hillsides for houses and olive trees. Most of the houses are built with reinforced concrete posts and beams, with hollow red clay bricks in between, then stocked over. Wood is used mostly for doors, windows, shutters, and furniture. Flat roofs with solar hot water heaters and satellite dishes. Usually no central heating, just wood stoves or electric heaters.

Heavy rain and wind near Finike caused me to stop early and check into a pansyion (guesthouse) for only 10 million Lira ($7 US). Was planning on getting an early start but 30 mph winds, heavy rain, thunder and lightning convinced me to stay another night. Laid in bed and sewed up some rips, darned my wool socks and read some. Heard a news report on BBC about some German students they were paying to lay in bed for 2 months to study muscle loss in space travel conditions. Not sure I could do 2 months in bed; one day is enough for me. Sunny and nice the next morning, so I got an early start.

Walking on a narrow coast road with no guardrail and a steep drop down to the sea. Drivers are coming around blind corners pretty fast, so I was keeping a close eye out. Saw two dolphins swimming along the coast and coming up for air every minute. I found a nice side canyon to camp in one night as it was getting dark. I just need a flat 5-foot by 7-foot space to set up my tent.

Invited to tea by some old men in a cafe right across from the snow covered Uyak Tepesi Mountain at 3,015 meters or about 9,000 feet. Another nice glass of tea with 4 Jandarmes taking a break from manning a roadblock. Sat by a nice hot stove early in the morning. Then 4 more Jandarmes came in to switch places and take their break. Kind of funny sometimes as they ask me questions and I try and answer as best as possible. Not sure sometimes what they are asking me, so they must think some of my answers are strange.

Headed northeast now for Antalya and Alanya. Email me if you have any questions or comments at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , or from my website at www.walkingman.org.

Weeks 10-12

Walkingman's 10th Week Across Greece and Turkey
Finike to Alanya via Antalya, 151 miles, 1-23-04 to 1-29-04

11,983 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2004.

Heavy rain and wind half the time, sunny and nice the other half. Flooding in fields, trees down, wires down, road and bridge damage and lots of erosion. The American woman I visited 3 weeks ago and 500 miles north, just had 3 feet of snow and no power for 5 days, so I guess I made it to southern Turkey just in time.

One day I sought shelter behind a beach kiosk as the wind picked up to 50 mph. Almost a whiteout with 30-foot visibility. Rain mixed with foam and salt water from the heavy surf was blowing past just 3-feet away from me on both sides of the kiosk. I was thinking of setting up my tent and getting in my sleeping bag, but too dangerous if the wind shifted directions. So I just sat back and watched the awesome power of nature. Only lasted about 30 minutes and then I was able to start walking again in a light rain that I can walk all day in my Gore-Tex suit. Stopped at a beach picnic and campground an hour later and was invited into a kiosk for coffee, TV, and heater to warm up. The caretakers invited me to stay the night, but then the sun came out and it turned nice and warm.

I just have to sing Zippity-do-dah and sooner or later it stops raining and the sun comes out. Still having a good time, but looking forward a little bit to going back to work at Wahweap Lodge, in Lake Powell, Arizona, and taking as many hot showers as I want everyday. Probably the only thing I really miss on my world walks is hot showers.

Stopped at the Captain Coustous Internet Cafe in Beldibi. The lines were down, so no internet, but they made me tea, and invited me to join them for their breakfast of eggs, olives, bread, cukes, and tomatoes.

Checked the weather report later on the internet site Yahoo and it was predicting 6 days of rain. Only turned out half right, so I was thinking of not checking the weather report any more.

Up a long hill coming out of Kemer. I think it took me 4 hours to reach the top, maybe 8 miles of switchbacks. I kept on seeing a ridge that looked like the top, but then seeing another ridge beyond. Invited in for tea and pancakes by some cafeteria workers at what I thought was almost the top.

Usually, I buy food every day at a supermarket. 1.5 liter yogurt, 2 or 3 loaves of fresh bread, 500 grams of nutella, 250 grams of sausage, figs, dates, peanuts, apples, bananas, and oranges. Lots of roadside fruit stands lately, and people have been giving me fruit every day.

Sometimes on cold rainy days I will stop at a small cafe for soup and bread. They bring you a plastic bowl full of bread to eat as much as you want. Fresh bread is real good here, only about 250 Lira (20 cents US) for a 12-inch by 4-inch loaf that is crisp outside and soft inside. Every small store has a glass cupboard outside of fresh bread. Sometimes I will smell the local bakery and see all the fresh bread stacked in the window and buy it there. Usually a big wooden table in front of a huge brick wood stove that they have wooden paddles to slide the loaves in and out with.

In the big cities by the bus station I sometimes stop for a Tavuk Doner (chicken sandwich) on a half loaf of bread with tomatoes, lettuce, onions, chili powder, and chicken carved off the rotisserie cooker. Very tasty and usually 1 to 2 million Lira (0.75 to 1.50 US $).

Heading east for Silifke. Only two more weeks of walking and then I take a bus to Istanbul where I fly back to Buffalo, NY. I will be giving a talk to the Barker Senior Citizens about my world walk on February 20th at 1pm at the Barker, N.Y. Fire Hall. Lunch is available at 11:30am for $2.

Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org if you have any questions or comments.

Keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause

Walkingman's 11th Week Across Greece and Turkey

Alanya to Yesilovacik via Anamur, 1-30-04 to 2-5-04, 155 miles,

12,138 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2004

Beautiful week, sunny and warm 7 days in a row. Spring seems to be here, a few flowers coming out and I saw some pink cherry blossoms in an orchard. Walking along the coast on a narrow quiet winding road through pine forests with an occasional tourist beach resort town. Lots of greenhouses stacked one on top of another up the side of the cliffs overlooking the sea. Looks like mostly tomatoes, bananas, cukes, peppers, lettuce, and onions. See a goat herder and a couple herds of goats everyday grazing on bushes and what little grass they can find.

Invited to lunch by a couple men that passed me on their motorcycle. Out on top of a flat roof overlooking the sea with a solar hot water heater and a trellis of grapevines for shade. Nice view of the island of Cyprus across the calm blue sea. Excellent lunch of grilled lamb (just butchered this morning), bread, tomatoes, cukes, onions, and sweet delicious baklava for dessert. The host went around with a bowl of candy and a bottle of cologne to sprinkle on every ones hands afterwards. I took a photo of the whole group and went around shaking hands and saying gule-gule and merci (goodbye and thank you). Started out with 4 men, finished with about 25 men (no women) an hour later. I think the word went around the village that a crazy American was walking around the world pushing a cart.

I usually see a few women with headscarves in the background but hardly ever meet them or talk to them. Sometimes young girls will ask me my name and where I am from. I think they are just learning English in school and want to practice it. There are also a few modern women that do not wear headscarves that I have talked to, but usually with someone else.

The next day as I reached the top of a long hill in Ucari, I was invited over for tea. The young man said he was about to sacrifice a goat and that I was invited to help and join them for lunch. I followed him behind the house where his father, 2 sons, and a wife, prepared the goat by letting it drink salt water. Then the father sprinkled salt water on its head, back, and legs. Only took about 45 minutes to dress it out and we were cooking thin strips over a charcoal fire. Tasty lunch of grilled goat, tomatoes, bread, and onions. I had just heard the night before on my radio a report by the BBC that the Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca) was going on, and one of the tasks was to sacrifice a sheep or goat and share with others that had none.

Walked down the road another 200 yards and I was invited to join another family to have grilled sheep, bread, and tomatoes. Pretty full already, but I managed a little more. I do not have anything extra with me to give people except for one of my business cards with website and email address. I figure I am entertaining and amusing people by telling them stories about my world walk.

Stopped for a walk around Mamure Castle just outside Anamur. Another old castle built by the Romans in the 3rd century AD and later occupied and expanded by the Byzantines and Sejul Turks.

Not stopping for tea as much now as it is getting hotter and I prefer my cold sun tea. One cool morning I stopped in a small village cafe with about 25 men sitting around playing cards, and reading newspapers. Usually somebody starts asking me questions, but this time everybody just stared at me and watched as I wrote in my journal and looked at my map. No hostility, just no one wanted to be the first to question me I guess. I usually just sit back and observe what's going on, I am not much for starting conversations.

Heading east for Adana now, where I will visit a friend that also worked at Lake Powell this last summer. One more week of walking till about Hatay, near the Syrian border. Then I take a bus to Istanbul, where I catch my flight back to the USA.

Email me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or from my website at www.walkingman.org (which just got updated with weeks 6-10) if you have any questions or comments.

Keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause

Walkingman's 12th and Final Week Across Greece and Turkey

Yesilovacik to Ceyhan via Mersin, 2-6-04 to 2-13-04, 169 miles 12,306 Total World Walk Miles. Copyright 2004

Stopped to visit a friend in Mersin with his family and then 2 days later at his flat in Adana where he goes to University. Orkur Sulphi had also worked at Wahweap Lodge this last summer, and I talked to him about conditions in his country before I left. He showed me around town and treated me to many of his local favorite foods. Always nice to visit a friend and a local that can show you around. He also stopped to visit several friends and introduce me and tell them what I had been doing. That always calls for tea (chi) the national drink of Turkey. In 2 months in Turkey, at about 6 cups of tea a day, that's about 360 cups, plus my 1.5-liter sun tea. Sometimes when I go past a cafe with lots of men sitting outside I try not to look at them if I have just had tea within the last 30 minutes, in fear of drinking more tea than my kidneys can handle.

Lots of old ruins along this stretch of coastline. Saw a nice old castle at Kizkalesi both on the shore and 300 yards offshore on an island. Many old ruins just out in the middle of fields.

Stopped at the American air base east of Adana at Incirlik. Many shop owners on the main road outside the base gate hailed me over for tea, ask me questions, and treated me to Adana Kebab. One teenager walked with me to show me where the internet-cafe was and explained to everyone what I was doing. Did not talk to any Americans, tight security because of the war and bombings in Istanbul.

Weather nice all week, did rain for about 5 minutes, barely enough time to put on my raincoat before it stopped. Did go through heavy snowstorm on the bus ride up to Istanbul.

Invited in for tea at the Davut Hotel in Ayas just as the sun was setting. Nice old building of stone with many antiques and old photos. The owner insisted that I pitch my tent in his yard, and his wife made me dinner of soup and bread. The two guard dogs chained up at the gate made a big uproar when I broke camp at 6 AM the next morning, and off and on all night.

Three Australians stopped to talk and gave me a nice sweet piece of cake. The one guy with his hat and sunglasses on looked just like Chef Paul, a friend from Cedar Breaks Lodge at Brian Head, Utah. I thought that was funny to meet him in Turkey, but not him.

Hailed from the second story balcony of a pink house in an orange grove. Invited in for coffee by the owner who was Turkish, who had also just invited in two couples, one from Scotland, and their daughter and her Turkish husband. Had a nice chat, and they gave a local sausage and many oranges from his orange grove.

Stopped my walk in Ceyhan and took a bus up to Istanbul to spend a few days walking around the city. Having a nice stay at the Konya Hostel, nice thick blankets and hot water in the shower, near the famous Blue Mosque.

Flying back to USA on Wednesday. Will be giving a talk about my world walk at Barker Fire Hall on February 20th at 1pm. Lunch is available for 2 dollars at 11:30, but you have to call 795-3575 and make a reservation by the day before. I am also giving a talk at the Newfane Fire Hall on February 26th at 12:45 till 1:00. Not sure if this if this open to the public or not, you could call Wanda Manhart of the Newfane Golden Agers to find out.

I had a great time walking Greece and Turkey, lots of really nice people. Will plan my next walk over the summer and let you all know. Possibly Israel and Egypt, Australia, or North Africa from Morocco to Egypt. Depends on which countries I can get visas for, political conditions, and weather.

Keep on walking.

Gary Walkingman Hause.

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